Journal

21 Aug 2026

Spiti is not a summer trip, and that is the point

Everyone comes in June because the Manali road opens. Come in October and the valley is empty, the light is the best of the year, and the sky at night is t...

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09 Aug 2026

What 3,800 metres does to you on the first day

Kaza sits higher than most people have ever slept. The headache on night one is normal, the breathlessness on the stairs is normal, and the cure is boring:...

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28 Jul 2026

Living on what the road brings in

Between November and April the Kunzum pass is shut and the Shimla road is ice. Everything in this kitchen came up before the snow. Here is what a Spiti pan...

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